Nepal: Through My Lens — A Stopover in Kathmandu

After the madness of India, we flew from Agra to Kathmandu, Nepal (approximately 2-hour flight). Just me, Darkon, and Alan, ready for what we thought would be a peaceful three-day stopover before heading to China.

Spoiler: Nepal had other plans!

Arrival (29th September): Late Night Vibes and a Very Friendly Hotel Owner

We arrived late at night, around 10pm, exhausted but buzzing from the journey. We checked into our hotel in Thamel, Kathmandu's tourist district and the beating heart of Nepal's backpacker scene!

The hotel owner was there to greet us. Very friendly! Almost too friendly, as it turned out. He offered us drinks and sat us down at an outdoor dining area in the hotel. Despite the late hour, we were able to order food, which was a relief after a long day of travelling.

But then something unexpected happened. Before we'd even caught our breath, the hotel owner sat down at our table. With us. For the entire meal.

Now, this doesn't really happen back in the UK. You check in, you get your room key, maybe a polite "enjoy your stay," and that's it. But here? The owner was settling in for a proper chat, asking about our plans, offering suggestions, telling us about tour packages.

He had a friend who could drive us around. He had another friend who offered flights over Mount Everest at a "good price!" Alan was sold immediately and handed over his details, ready to book.

We politely let him know we had everything planned out (we only had three days, after all), thanked him for the suggestions, and headed to bed.

Little did we know, this wouldn't be the last we'd hear from him.

Day One (30th September): Bhaktapur, Pashupatinath, and the Monkey Temple

We woke up ready to explore! First stop: Bhaktapur Darbar Square, one of the three royal cities in the Kathmandu Valley and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bhaktapur (which means "City of Devotees") dates back to the 12th century and was once the capital of Nepal during the Malla Kingdom! The square is filled with stunning temples, palaces, and courtyards showcasing traditional Newari architecture. The intricate wood carvings, pagoda-style temples, and terracotta work are absolutely breathtaking!

The 55-Window Palace, built in 1427, features incredible wooden lattice windows that are a masterpiece of craftsmanship. The Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka) is adorned with images of Hindu deities and is considered one of the most beautiful pieces of metalwork in Nepal! Walking through Bhaktapur felt like stepping back in time. Monks wandered the streets, locals went about their day, and the whole place had this calm, spiritual energy.

We spent the morning scouting shops, and let me tell you, mountain wear is EVERYWHERE in Nepal! And cheap! Unlimited North Face knockoffs, trekking gear, waterproof jackets... it's a budget hiker's paradise.

After a lovely start to the day, we headed to Pashupatinath Temple, one of the most sacred Hindu temples in the world.

Pashupatinath is dedicated to Lord Shiva and sits on the banks of the Bagmati River, which is considered a holy river in Hinduism, much like the Ganges. The temple complex dates back to 400 AD (though the current structure was built in the 17th century) and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hindus from all over the world come here for pilgrimage, and it's also one of the most significant cremation sites in Nepal.

This is where things got emotional.

We arrived to witness open-air cremation ceremonies along the riverbanks. In Hindu tradition, cremation is a sacred ritual meant to release the soul from the physical body so it can continue its journey through reincarnation. Families gather to say goodbye, bodies are wrapped in orange or white cloth, placed on wooden pyres, and then cremated in full view.

It's confronting. Seeing death so openly, so publicly, it makes you think about how precious life is. How different cultures hold space for grief.

But what absolutely broke my heart was one particular ceremony. The man being cremated was a soldier. Over 40 men stood in perfect formation, all in their military uniforms. His mother, his loved ones, all standing close, holding photos of him. The screech of their cries echoed through the air.

I stood there with my camera, tears streaming down my face, trying to process it all. The weight of loss. The honour. The humanity of it.

To lighten the mood after such a heavy experience, we left and headed to Swayambhunath, better known as the Monkey Temple.

Swayambhunath is one of the oldest and most revered Buddhist stupas in Nepal, dating back over 2,000 years! Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Kathmandu Valley, it's named after the hundreds of monkeys that live in the surrounding forest (and yes, they're cheeky little thieves, so watch your belongings!).

The stupa itself is iconic. A massive white dome with the all-seeing eyes of Buddha painted on all four sides of the golden spire. Colourful prayer flags stretch across the entire complex, fluttering in the wind, carrying prayers and mantras into the universe!

The prayer wheels (those cylindrical things you see people spinning) are everywhere! In Buddhist tradition, you're supposed to walk clockwise around the stupa, spinning each prayer wheel as you pass. Each spin is said to release the prayers inscribed inside, accumulating merit and good karma!

The panoramic views from the top were spectacular! You can see the entire Kathmandu Valley spread out below, mountains in the distance, rooftops and temples dotting the landscape. Absolutely breathtaking!

We had tea while we were out, soaking in the views and the spiritual energy of the place.

When we got back to the hotel, the owner was in reception. Very keen to hear all about our day, asking where we'd been, what we'd seen.

Then he asked if he could join us for tea that evening.

We explained we'd already eaten while out and were heading straight to bed after a long day.

Something shifted in him. His smile faded. He seemed annoyed. Disappointed. We couldn't quite put our finger on it, but the vibe definitely changed.

We said goodnight and went to bed, brushing it off.

Day Two (1st October): Lazy Morning, Everest Disaster, and Chandragiri Hills

Darkon and I had a lazy morning to start the day, catching up on some much-needed sleep. Alan, on the other hand, was up before dawn, ready for his Mount Everest scenic flight tour.

While he was off on his adventure, Darkon and I wandered the streets in search of breakfast. Surprisingly, we found a cute little cafe tucked between hundreds of plants, serving a full English breakfast! Not exactly what you'd expect in Kathmandu, but we weren't complaining.

We spent the morning relaxing, walking around Thamel, scouting for a new rainproof coat for China.

When Alan returned from his trip, we were excited to hear all about it.

Turns out, it was a disaster.

His driver didn't turn up. He slept in. An hour late! Alan just about made it in time for the plane before take-off, stressed out of his mind. And to top it off? The hotel manager had told him this would be a private flight and charged him extra for the privilege.

It wasn't. The plane was packed. 20+ people crammed in!

And because he arrived late, he didn't even get a window seat! So flying over Everest, the whole reason he'd booked the flight, he could barely see anything. Just glimpses through other people's windows.

Disappointed doesn't even cover it.

Although he thoroughly enjoyed what he could see of the flight, it wasn't what he'd expected or paid extra for, and definitely not worth all the stress.

Little did he know, it wouldn't be the last time he'd fly over Everest. And the next time? He'd have a much better view!

To make the most of the day (now late afternoon), we headed for the cable car at Chandragiri Hills.

The drive up to the cable car station was sketchy as hell! Zigzag narrow roads, hairpin turns, sheer drops on one side, cars weaving past each other with inches to spare. My anxiety was through the roof!

But once we were in the cable car and started ascending, the views calmed me right down. Gliding up through the clouds and fog, rising above the Kathmandu Valley... it was surreal!

Unfortunately, the peak was shrouded in mist. On a clear day, you're supposed to be able to see Mount Everest from Chandragiri Hills, but for us? Invisible. Just thick fog and clouds. A bit of a theme for Alan today!

The Last Meal and a Very Unhappy Hotel Owner

That evening, we decided to treat ourselves to dinner at a posh rooftop restaurant, the Surya Heritage Hotel. Beautiful hotel, stunning rooftop, what could go wrong?

The place was absolutely dead. More dead than the people being burned at Pashupatinath (too soon?). Seriously, we were the only people there. But we didn't think much of it at the time.

We sat reminiscing about our time in Nepal, how incredible it had been, how much I'd love to come back someday. We were planning and discussing our next destination (China!) while I dug into a chicken sizzler dish. Hot plate, sizzling vegetables, the works. Delicious!

Back at our hotel, we spoke with reception to arrange transport to the airport for the next morning. We'd be checking out very early for our flight to China.

And then, here came the manager.

All raged. All heated. Asking us why we hadn't spent any money at his restaurant. Why we hadn't booked any of his tour services. "Why have you gone out to have food and not eat at my restaurant?!"

We were shocked. Startled. This was happening in front of other hotel guests too!

We explained, very politely, that we really enjoyed his food on our first evening, but as we were only here for a short time, we wanted to try as many different restaurants and foods as possible. Isn't that part of travelling?

He wasn't having it. He was visibly upset. We apologised, trying to de-escalate the situation, but it was clear he wasn't happy he didn't get much money out of us.

We had to walk away.

Headed to bed, excited (and a bit rattled) about what China would bring.

2am: Food Poisoning from Hell

2am. I woke up desperate for the toilet.

And then it hit. Projectile vomit. Both ends. For hours.

I was curled up on the bathroom floor, sweating, shaking, i had never felt this unwell before. The chicken sizzler from Surya Heritage Hotel. It had to be!! That dead restaurant. Of course.

Darkon woke up and knew something was seriously wrong. He insisted we cancel the flight and try again tomorrow.

I refused. Absolutely not. We weren't even two weeks into the trip! I couldn't let everyone down. We were sticking to the plan.

Morning Departure: Held Hostage for a Google Review

We pushed through to check out, me barely conscious and stumbling. We were supposed to have free transport to the airport as part of our booking.

But there was one exception.

We had to leave a good review on Google first.

Now, after the hotel owner's behaviour the previous night, we were reluctant. Very reluctant. But there he was, standing right next to us at reception, looking over our shoulders, watching what we would write.

And I was unwell. Desperately unwell. Darkon just wanted to get me out of there and onto that plane. So we did it. We wrote a positive review while the owner hovered, reading every word.

But it wouldn't be long until we updated it. And when we did, we read through other tourist reviews and found that the owner had behaved like this with others too. Demanding money for services not rendered, getting aggressive when guests didn't spend enough, forcing positive reviews in exchange for basic amenities.

We finally got our "free" transport and headed to the airport. I don't remember much of it. I was in and out of sleep, stumbling through the terminal, running to the bathroom every five minutes. The sweat was pouring off me. I couldn't keep anything down.

Darkon and Alan took great care of me, getting me through security, onto the plane, into my seat.

Before the flight even took off, I was fast asleep in the chair, utterly wiped out.

Not long later, I felt someone nudging me.

"Look out the window," Darkon said.

I turned, barely able to open my eyes.

And there it was.

We were flying past Mount Everest.

The tallest mountain in the world, 8,849 metres above sea level, standing proud above the clouds. The Himalayas stretched out endlessly in every direction, snow-capped peaks glowing in the sunlight.

Alan finally got his proper Everest view. From a window seat. For free.

I smiled, took it in for a moment, and then promptly passed out again.

A Photographer's Reflection: Nepal's Unexpected Lessons

Nepal was supposed to be a quick stopover. Three days. In and out. A breather between India and China.

But it ended up being one of the most intense, emotional, and memorable parts of the entire trip!

From a photography perspective, Nepal is a dream! The prayer flags creating these bursts of colour against ancient stone, the all-seeing eyes of Buddha watching over the valley, the intricate wood carvings of Bhaktapur that have survived centuries. Every frame told a story.

But more than the photos, Nepal taught me about perspective. Watching the cremation ceremonies at Pashupatinath, seeing how openly and publicly grief is held, how death is treated as a natural part of life's cycle... it shifted something in me. It made me think about how we avoid talking about death back home, how we hide it away.

And then there was the food poisoning! Which, let's be honest, is a rite of passage for any traveller in Asia. Getting violently ill at 2am and still dragging yourself onto a plane because you refuse to let it derail your plans? That's commitment. Or stubbornness. Probably both!

Nepal threw everything at us in three days. Beauty, grief, sketchy hotel owners, Everest from a plane window while on the verge of death. It was chaotic, overwhelming, and absolutely unforgettable.

Would I go back? In a heartbeat!

Highlights / Things to Do

Kathmandu Valley:

• Bhaktapur Darbar Square - UNESCO World Heritage Site, ancient Malla Kingdom capital

• Pashupatinath Temple - Sacred Hindu cremation site on the Bagmati River

• Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple) - 2,000-year-old Buddhist stupa with panoramic valley views

• Thamel - Tourist district with endless mountain gear shops and cafes

• Chandragiri Hills Cable Car - Views of the Himalayas (on a clear day!)

Cultural Experiences:

• Prayer flags and prayer wheels at Buddhist sites

• Open-air cremation ceremonies (deeply emotional and confronting)

• Traditional Newari architecture and wood carvings

• Meeting monks and sadhus in temple complexes

• Spinning prayer wheels for good karma!

Unique Experiences:

• Mount Everest scenic flight (book wisely!)

• Bargaining for North Face knockoffs

• Navigating sketchy mountain roads

• Finding a full English breakfast in Nepal

• Accidentally upsetting a hotel owner by eating elsewhere

• Flying past Everest while battling food poisoning!

Photography Highlights:

• Colourful prayer flags everywhere

• Intricate temple architecture

• The all-seeing eyes of Buddha

• Panoramic Kathmandu Valley views

• Monkeys at Swayambhunath

• Traditional craftsmanship in Bhaktapur

Pro Tips:

• Don't eat at dead restaurants (learn from my mistakes!)

• Book Everest flights directly, not through hotel owners

• Bring hand sanitiser. Lots of it.

• Respect cremation sites - photography is allowed but be discreet and respectful

• Mountain gear shopping in Thamel is unbeatable for prices

• The monkeys WILL steal your stuff - keep bags zipped!

• NEVER let a hotel owner force you to write a Google review before providing promised services. It's extortion. Report it!

• Check Google reviews carefully before booking accommodation - look for patterns of owner behaviour

  
  

Next chapter: China!