The Beginning of Our Journey: Exploring India

Jun 28, 2025
17 min read

Updated: Apr 9

Our journey began in the heart of India. New Delhi! A city bursting with life, history, and sensory overload. It wasn't just me and Darkon on this adventure. We had Darkon's friend Alan with us too, making us a trio ready to tackle whatever India threw at us. With my camera in hand, I set out to capture the vibrancy and contrasts of this incredible country, knowing these first few days would be an exciting challenge for a photographer.

Spoiler: I had no idea just how much of a challenge it would actually be!

Arrival: Traffic, Chaos, and "Welcome to India"

The moment we landed and got into our first vehicle, I was absolutely shocked by the roads. I'm talking cars, motorbikes, tuk-tuks, pedestrians, cows, camels, and everything in between all sharing the same road with what appears to be a mutual agreement that lanes, indicators, and general road rules are merely suggestions. It's orchestrated chaos! Everyone's weaving, honking, and somehow it all just works. I have no idea how, but it does.

We navigated through the madness to our accommodation, tucked down an alleyway off a busy road. We dropped our things, camera safely in the bag, and off we went. This is where we met Darkon's friend from India: Paw, a tuk-tuk driver who Darkon had met on a previous trip. Instant reconnection, straight into the banter, and we were off!

Our first stop? Food. And not just any food! Proper, authentic Indian food in a small but very busy restaurant. Nothing fancy, but the food? Unreal. This was my first taste of real Indian cuisine, and we went all in. Ordered one of everything. Best decision ever.

Day One (25th Sept): The Bracelet Incident, Connaught Place, Monkeys, and an Accidental Strip Club

After our food coma subsided, we hopped in Paw's tuk-tuk ready to explore New Delhi. But first, we had to navigate through that absolutely mental Delhi traffic again.

As we sat at a red light, I watched four small kids (couldn't have been older than six!) dart into the stopped traffic, moving from car to car, tapping on windows, asking for money. Paw had warned us about this. These kids are often used by adults, sometimes their own parents, to collect money that goes straight to drug habits. It's heartbreaking. The best thing you can do, he said, is not give them money in the hope that this trade will eventually die out.

What he didn't warn me about was how persistent they'd be!

Before I knew it, they were at our tuk-tuk, reaching in, grabbing at anything visible. I'm not a flashy jewellery person. I'd left anything valuable at home. But I was wearing one piece I couldn't bear to leave behind: a silver bracelet my friend Lucy had given me before I left. It had a St. Christopher charm on it, meant to guide me safely through my travels. Beautiful. Sentimental. Irreplaceable.

One of the kids spotted it immediately.

Her tiny fingers wrapped around the beads, tugging. I begged her to let go, told her I'd find another way to help, but she didn't listen. More kids joined in, laughing, pulling harder. I could feel the bracelet straining. I had a split-second choice: let it snap and lose it anyway, or take it off and hand it over.

I took it off.

The second it left my wrist, they were gone! Laughing, running back to the pavement as the light turned green and the traffic surged forward.

The whole thing lasted maybe two minutes. Maybe less. But it felt like twenty.

I'd just been mugged by a six-year-old. In India. On day one!

Paw apologised profusely, but I waved him off. It wasn't his fault. And as gutting as it was to lose Lucy's bracelet, I understood the bigger picture. Those kids weren't the villains here. They were being used. Exploited. It didn't make losing the bracelet easier, but it gave the whole thing a different weight.

We carried on to Connaught Place, one of New Delhi's most iconic commercial and financial hubs. We wandered around, taking pictures of the Georgian-style colonial architecture built in the early 20th century during British rule. The circular design radiates from a central park, creating these beautiful symmetrical views that are a photographer's dream!

And then the ear cleaning guy appeared!

We were just walking around when this man showed up, offering traditional ear cleaning services. Not the spa kind! The old-school, ancient metal tools kind. This practice has been part of Indian street culture for generations, and the ear cleaners (known as kaan saaf karnewale) use techniques passed down through families. Darkon, being Darkon, was immediately up for it. I watched, fascinated and horrified in equal measure, as this man went to work with his toolkit. The amount of earwax that came out was disgusting. Proper chunks! I was cringing and laughing, trying to get photos without being too obvious.

Then he gestured to me. My turn.

But here's the weird bit. He only cleaned one of my ears. Just one. Then stopped. I was baffled! Religious thing? Cultural thing? Gender thing? I have no idea. So there I was, one ear freshly cleaned, the other completely ignored, just standing there wondering what had just happened. Random? Absolutely. An experience? 100%.

Shortly after, I saw a wild monkey! Totally unexpected for me in this location. He was just casually sitting near some shops on a busy road, eating someone's sandwich like it owned the place. Rhesus macaques are incredibly common in Indian cities, and they're known for being cheeky thieves! I stood there with my camera, absolutely mesmerised. This was my first time in Asia, and if this was just day one, I was in for a wild ride!

That evening, we walked around Ratan Lan Market (also known as Kinari Bazaar). A sensory overload of bright lights, neon signs, motorbikes weaving in and out of crowds of people. This market has been a bustling trading hub for centuries, specialising in everything from wedding decorations to traditional Indian textiles. I'd never seen anything like it! The energy, the noise, the colours. I was snapping photos left and right, trying to capture even a fraction of the chaos.

As we were walking, bar staff started insisting we come in for a drink. We're not big drinkers or party people, so we told one guy we'd prefer somewhere quiet (if that's even possible in India). He assured us his bar was perfect. Quiet. Chill. Exactly what we wanted.

We went in.

It was nice, to be fair. Modern lights, small room, decent design. We ordered a beer and started chatting with the bartender. And then I noticed something. The small stage in the corner. And the fact that there was literally no one else in this room.

It slowly dawned on us. That stage? Was for dancers!

We'd accidentally walked into a strip club.

To be fair, it was still early, so we weren't about to be surprised with any shows anytime soon. We drank our beers, had a laugh about it, and called it a night. First full day in India, and what a day it had been!

Day Two (26th Sept): Red Fort and rooftop dining

We got up early the next morning and met Paw, who took us to a lovely restaurant above the street. Literally a rooftop spot overlooking the controlled chaos below! The view was incredible, the food even better. Watching Delhi from above, with the sounds of horns and chatter rising up, was the perfect way to start the day.

From there, we headed to the Red Fort (Lal Qila). Its massive red sandstone walls commanded attention against the chaos of the streets outside. Built between 1638 and 1648 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (yes, the same emperor who built the Taj Mahal!), this UNESCO World Heritage Site served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors for nearly 200 years. The fort's grandeur demanded to be photographed! Those towering gates, the intricate Mughal architecture glowing in the morning light.

The Red Fort covers over 255 acres and was designed to showcase Mughal creativity, combining Persian, Timurid, and Indian architectural styles. The walls extend for more than 2 kilometres and vary in height from 16 metres on the river side to 33 metres on the city side! Inside, you'll find stunning structures like the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) and the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), which once housed the famous Peacock Throne. The fort also played a significant role in India's independence movement. On August 15, 1947, the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, raised the Indian national flag above the Lahori Gate, and every year since, the Prime Minister has hoisted the flag here on Independence Day!

I spent ages trying to capture the scale of it, the way the carved details caught the sun, the contrast between its ancient stillness and the honking, swirling traffic just beyond its walls.

Next, Paw took us to the Chandni Chowk area, one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi. Built in the 17th century by Shah Jahan, Chandni Chowk (which translates to "Moonlight Square") was once divided by canals that reflected moonlight, giving it its name! We had Indian ice cream (kulfi, so good!), wandered through narrow streets, and then arrived at the spice market (Khari Baoli). This is actually Asia's largest wholesale spice market, established in the 1600s! The moment we got there, I knew this was going to be incredible. The narrow lanes were exploding with colour! Pyramids of turmeric, chili powder, coriander, saffron, all stacked in enormous burlap sacks. The air was thick and heady, almost spicy enough to taste. Vendors called out as we passed, and the whole place hummed with energy.

I was in my element! The light filtering through the market's canopy created these gorgeous pockets of shadow and warmth, and I shot everything. The textures of the spices, the weathered hands of the traders, the organized chaos of it all.

But Paw wasn't done. He showed us a secret entrance to a rooftop so Darkon could fly his drone. The views were spectacular! Down below, food vendors, people, animals, all going about their day. The noises, the buildings, the sheer scale of it all. I was blown away.

From there, we visited Humayun's Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most significant pieces of Mughal architecture in India. Built in 1570, this was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent and served as inspiration for the Taj Mahal! The tomb was commissioned by Humayun's first wife, Empress Bega Begum, and designed by Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas. The structure stands 47 metres tall and features the iconic Mughal double dome, intricate lattice work, and stunning geometric gardens divided into four main parts (char bagh), representing the four rivers of paradise in Islamic tradition.

The red sandstone structure inlaid with white and black marble creates this incredible contrast, and the symmetry is absolutely breathtaking! The complex also houses the tombs of several other Mughal royals, making it a significant historical site. The gardens are meticulously maintained, and walking through them feels like stepping back in time. I wandered around for hours, trying to capture every angle, every detail, the way the light danced across the marble inlays.

Next, we headed to Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah, one of the most famous Sufi shrines in India. This spiritual complex is the mausoleum of the renowned Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya, who lived in Delhi during the 13th-14th century. The shrine has been a centre of Sufi culture and qawwali music for over 700 years! The atmosphere here was completely different from the monuments we'd visited. The narrow lanes leading to the dargah were bustling with flower sellers, incense vendors, and devotees from all walks of life.

The shrine itself is known for its inclusive philosophy. Nizamuddin Auliya believed that serving humanity was the best way to serve God, and people of all religions visit the dargah to seek blessings. The complex also houses the grave of the legendary Sufi poet Amir Khusrow, who was a disciple of Nizamuddin Auliya and is credited with inventing several musical instruments and new forms of music!

On Thursday evenings, the dargah comes alive with qawwali performances, where Sufi devotional music fills the air. We didn't stay for a performance, but even during the day, the spiritual energy was palpable. I took so many pictures, trying to capture the devotion, the architecture, the sense of peace amidst the chaos of Delhi.

So many pictures taken. Such a long day! Alan and Darkon were sleeping in the tuk-tuk at various points. I couldn't. My mind was too blown away by everything I was seeing.

That evening, we went back to the rooftop restaurant to have dinner with Paw. To thank him for giving us such a brilliant couple of days showing us around New Delhi! Lots of laughs, lots of food ordered. It was the perfect way to end our time in Delhi. Paw had shown us the real city, the hidden gems, the places tourists never find. We couldn't have asked for a better guide.

Early night, though. The next day, we were travelling to our new accommodation closer to the Taj Mahal.

Day Three (27th Sept): Agra Bound and Exploring Agra Fort

On the morning of the 27th, we said goodbye to Paw and set off for Agra. The drive was long, but the anticipation was building!

After arriving and settling into our new accommodation, we went to explore Agra Fort (also known as the Red Fort of Agra, though it's a completely different structure from Delhi's Red Fort!). This UNESCO World Heritage Site was built in 1565 by Emperor Akbar and served as the main residence of the Mughal emperors until 1638, when the capital shifted to Delhi.

If the Red Fort in Delhi was impressive, this one was next level! The fort is actually a walled city spread over 94 acres, with walls that are 70 feet high! Made of red sandstone, the fort contains numerous palaces, mosques, and halls within its walls. Some of the most stunning structures include the Jahangir Palace, the Khas Mahal (private palace), the Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), and the Diwan-i-Khas, which once held Shah Jahan's famous Peacock Throne before it was moved to Delhi.

The fort also has a poignant history. Shah Jahan, the emperor who built the Taj Mahal for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, was actually imprisoned here by his own son Aurangzeb in 1658. Shah Jahan spent the last eight years of his life confined to the Musamman Burj, a beautiful octagonal tower from which he could see the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River. Imagine building the most beautiful monument to love and then spending your final years imprisoned, gazing at it from a distance!

The sheer size of it, the layers of history embedded in the walls. It's the kind of place where you could spend days and still not see everything. I focused on the details: the lattice work in the windows (jalis designed to let in light and air while providing privacy), the views out over the Yamuna River, the way the stone changed colour as the sun moved.

Day Four (27th Evening): A Room with a (Taj Mahal) View

Our accommodation was something special. Our place had a rooftop bar where you could see the Taj Mahal across the way! What a view. What a start.

As it was evening after arriving, we went to a location Darkon had already scoped out. Across the lake, overlooking the Taj Mahal. We were hoping for a spectacular sunset, but we didn't get the oranges and pinks we'd imagined. Just blues. Still beautiful, but not quite the dramatic sunset we'd hoped for.

There were loads of people there taking pictures, and we got friendly with a family who were trying to get a photo together on their phone. We offered to take it for them with everyone in the frame, and they were chuffed!

As we were taking pictures with our cameras, a young guy (possibly early 20s) came up to us. He said he was practicing videography, did weddings, and wanted to take a video of me and Darkon with the Taj Mahal behind us.

This was different. We're usually the ones behind the camera, not in front of it. We agreed, but told him: no cheesy poses.

Famous last words!

The guy was very good at directing us on how to pose. But for us? It was way too cheesy! We kept laughing, couldn't keep straight faces. The video actually came out pretty good in the end, though. We exchanged Instagrams and headed off as the sunset (or lack thereof) wrapped up.

That evening, we had food at the hotel on the rooftop. The owner opened up the entire rooftop just for the three of us (me, Darkon, and Alan!) with our own personal waiter who waited by the door. We told them they didn't have to stay outside, that we could come to them when we wanted to order, but they insisted on staying.

It felt very posh. Very important. Very not us. But we weren't complaining!

Day Five (28th Sept): The Taj Mahal at 5am (and a Sketchy Souvenir Shop!)

This was the big one. The reason we'd come to Agra. The Taj Mahal.

And when I say we were up early, I mean early! Alarms set for 5am, stumbling out the door while it was still dark, all to be at the gates by 6am. We'd opted for a tour guide who promised to get us in among the first visitors of the day. Fewer crowds, better light, and apparently, better photos.

He wasn't wrong about the light. The moment we walked through those gates and saw the Taj Mahal bathed in the soft, golden glow of sunrise, I understood why people wake up at ungodly hours for this! The white marble seemed to glow from within, almost ethereal against the pale morning sky. The reflecting pools mirrored the entire structure perfectly, and for a moment, it felt like the world had paused.

The Taj Mahal is arguably the world's most famous monument to love. Built between 1632 and 1653 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died during childbirth, this UNESCO World Heritage Site attracts over 7 million visitors annually! The entire complex took 22 years to complete and required the labour of 20,000 artisans, craftsmen, and workers from across India, Persia, and the Ottoman Empire.

The main mausoleum stands 73 metres tall and is built entirely of white Makrana marble, which changes colour depending on the time of day! At dawn, it glows soft pink. In the afternoon, it's dazzling white. At dusk, it takes on golden hues. Under moonlight, it appears almost translucent! This wasn't accidental; Shah Jahan intended for the monument to reflect the changing moods of his beloved wife.

The marble is inlaid with 28 types of precious and semi-precious stones, including jade, crystal, lapis lazuli, amethyst, and turquoise, forming intricate floral patterns and Quranic verses. The level of detail is staggering! Even the flowers carved into the marble are botanically accurate. The main dome is actually a double dome; the outer dome we see is 35 metres high, while the inner dome creates the soaring ceiling inside the mausoleum.

But here's the thing: our tour guide had opinions about how we should photograph this experience. And by opinions, I mean he basically took over my job!

Suddenly, I wasn't the photographer anymore. I was the subject! He was positioning us, telling us where to stand, what angles worked best, getting us to do all these poses. It was weird, honestly. I'm used to being behind the camera, not in front of it. But he was insistent, and I'll admit, some of the shots he got were really good. There I am, standing in the classic spot on the walkway, framed by the long reflecting pool and the cypress trees. A bit cliché? Sure. But when you're standing there, in that moment, with one of the most beautiful buildings in the world in front of you, you just have to capture it!

What made the whole experience even more surreal was how knowledgeable he was. In between directing our amateur photoshoot, he was rattling off facts about the Taj Mahal. Its history, the craftsmanship, the symbolism. It was like having a walking encyclopedia with a camera!

The real magic happened when we went inside. The interior of the Taj Mahal is dimly lit, and our guide pulled out a small torch. He shone it on the white marble walls, and I watched, mesmerised, as the stone seemed to change colour. Soft pinks, warm golds, subtle greens! Depending on the angle of the light. It was incredible. The intricate inlay work, the semi-precious stones embedded in the marble, the craftsmanship that went into every single detail... you can't fully appreciate it until you see it up close like that.

I was so absorbed in the beauty of it all that I didn't think much of it when our guide said, on the way out, "I want to take you to a souvenir shop. Won't take long."

Famous last words. Again!

We had our tuk-tuk driver waiting outside, and we didn't have much time left. But our guide insisted. "Very quick. Just around the corner."

Around the corner turned into down an alleyway. And not a nice alleyway! A sketchy, boarded-up, definitely-not-touristy alleyway. The kind where you start wondering if this is how true crime documentaries begin. Our guide became very persistent that we follow him, repeating "won't be long, won't be long" like a mantra. I exchanged a look with Darkon and Alan. This felt wrong.

And then there was the human faeces on the ground. Just there. On the pavement. Not many shops open on this street, and the ones that were looked like they'd been abandoned years ago.

We arrived at the "souvenir shop." The door was locked. Our guide knocked, gestured for us to sit down on a bench outside. At this point, I was genuinely starting to worry. Darkon's phone was ringing. Our tuk-tuk driver, asking where the hell we were and saying he was going to leave if we didn't hurry up!

Then a man emerged from the back of the building. My heart rate spiked. What was about to happen?

He brought out marble sculptures. Beautiful ones, to be fair. Intricate, hand-carved, clearly skilled work. We had a chat, looked at his pieces, and I'll admit they were stunning. But also? Expensive. Very expensive. For a rock!

And he was persistent. Very persistent! Meanwhile, my phone was buzzing non-stop. Our tuk-tuk driver, increasingly irate, threatening to leave.

In the end, we bought something small just to get out of there and legged it back to our driver, who was absolutely fuming. The whole thing felt like a fever dream! One minute, I'm photographing one of the most beautiful buildings in the world at sunrise. The next, I'm being led down a faeces-strewn alleyway to a locked marble shop by a man who may or may not have been holding us hostage.

India, you are wild!

Later That Day: Rest and Sikandra

After that absolute rollercoaster of a morning, we went back to the hotel for some much-needed rest and a chance to freshen up!

Later in the afternoon, we headed to Sikandra to visit Akbar's Tomb. This mausoleum is the final resting place of the great Mughal Emperor Akbar, who ruled from 1556 to 1605 and is considered one of the greatest rulers in Indian history! Construction of the tomb was begun by Akbar himself in 1600, but it was completed by his son Jahangir in 1613.

The tomb itself is stunning. Red sandstone and white marble, with intricate geometric inlay work that I could've photographed for hours! The structure is unique because it blends Hindu, Christian, Islamic, Buddhist, and Jain architectural elements, reflecting Akbar's policy of religious tolerance and his interest in different faiths. The monument stands in the centre of a large Mughal garden (char bagh) that spans 119 acres!

The tomb has four towering minarets at each corner of the main gate, and the entrance gateway itself is a masterpiece decorated with intricate mosaic patterns and marble inlay work featuring floral and geometric designs. The symmetry, the archways, the way the light played across the carved surfaces... it was an absolute dream for a photographer. I wandered around, framing shots from every angle, trying to capture the sense of scale and history.

What I didn't expect was how quiet it was. After the chaos of the Taj Mahal tour and the souvenir shop incident, this place felt almost meditative. Just me, my camera, and centuries-old architecture. Bliss!

29th September: Next Stop, Nepal

The next day, we flew to Nepal. But that's a story for another post!

A Photographer's Paradise: The Madness and Magic of India

Looking back at my camera roll from those five days in India, I'm still overwhelmed by the sheer variety of images. India is absolute madness for a photographer, and I mean that in the best possible way! Every street corner, every monument, every market stall offered something worth capturing.

India didn't just challenge me as a photographer. It rewired how I see. The madness forced me to be faster, braver, more instinctive with my shots. There's no time to overthink when a monkey's stealing someone's lunch or when the perfect light's hitting ancient marble for exactly three minutes before it's gone. You just shoot and hope you caught the magic.

I loved every chaotic, beautiful, overwhelming second of it!

Highlights / Things to Do

New Delhi:

Red Fort (Lal Qila) - UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mughal fortress & palace complex
Chandni Chowk - 17th-century market in Old Delhi
Khari Baoli Spice Market - Asia's largest wholesale spice market
Connaught Place - Iconic Georgian-style colonial commercial hub
Humayun's Tomb - UNESCO World Heritage Site, inspiration for the Taj Mahal
Hazrat Nizamuddin Dargah - Famous Sufi shrine and centre of qawwali music
Ratan Lan Market (Kinari Bazaar) - Traditional market for textiles and wedding decorations
Traditional ear cleaning experience (kaan saaf karnewale)
Wild monkey spotting (Rhesus macaques)
Rooftop dining overlooking the city

Agra:

Taj Mahal - UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the Seven Wonders of the World
Agra Fort - UNESCO World Heritage Site, Mughal fortress & former imperial residence
Akbar's Tomb (Sikandra) - Mausoleum of Emperor Akbar with unique architectural blend
Sunset views of Taj Mahal from across the lake
Local marble craft workshops

Unique Experiences: